Keel Bolt Anchor Repair

Tom Peterson · August 14, 2011, 11:43:46 AM

It didn't take long to need a repair to my new to me boat. The aft keelbolt anchor is coming out. It looks like there was a half ass repair job performed. Can anyone give me some guidance for the repair? I also had been reading about keel box insert kits is this an added piece that should be installed or the fix itself? Thanks for the help in advance!

Ben Steinberg · August 14, 2011, 12:25:59 PM

What hull number

Tom Peterson · August 14, 2011, 01:20:32 PM

#106

Ben Steinberg · August 14, 2011, 01:45:27 PM

Contact a rondar rep to get the keel box cassette. I think they have the threads in them and eliminate the old threaded inserts.

Drew Harper · August 14, 2011, 03:12:21 PM

The keel guide cassette is the way to go Tom.

Easy to install and provides an extra layer of safety in the event of a grounding.

Your existing inserts should be removed so that the guide can be installed.

I don't have one in stock, but I do believe Paul Zim has one.

If you have questions, feel free to call me 415-543-7333.....drew

Jeff Jones · August 14, 2011, 11:16:56 PM

The keel guide might not work and even if it does, you might be interested in a more "secure" alternative.

We've had several guys down here run aground - not hard enough to hurt anything - yet the keel guide an back nut insert came loose, ending their event.

I just did some work on a boat where the keel was too wide for the insert - the first revision from rondar wouldnt' even go over the keel. The second one installed damaged the keel so we pulled it out and put in a teflon insert that kept the to of the keel in place and drilled / tapped a piece of G10 under the aft lip after repairing the top.

If you want some pictures, let me know.

Olaf Bleck · August 15, 2011, 12:05:09 AM

Quote from: Jeff Jones on August 14, 2011, 11:16:56 PM
The keel guide might not work and even if it does, you might be interested in a more "secure" alternative.

We've had several guys down here run aground - not hard enough to hurt anything - yet the keel guide an back nut insert came loose, ending their event.

I just did some work on a boat where the keel was too wide for the insert - the first revision from rondar wouldnt' even go over the keel. The second one installed damaged the keel so we pulled it out and put in a teflon insert that kept the to of the keel in place and drilled / tapped a piece of G10 under the aft lip after repairing the top.

If you want some pictures, let me know.

I've got #24 and #56, both of which have potential issues. They're holding their own, but what's this cassette thing? Photos of any solutions would be great.

#56 has the high density plastic keel guides, which seem to be pretty rugged, and a keel shaped trunk which was leaking some but I found and filled all the major leaks. See below for possible end-all solution for possible hairline crack leaks.

#24 has a rectangular keel trunk and the keel foil itself is somewhat irregular. There are no guides aside from the composite reinforcing around the opening in the hull. The top of the box has rectangular plate the size of the standard keel plate, made out of a ~1/4" metal plate with the foil cross section cut out. It's screwed in around the edge of the top of the keel box and has two threaded studs coming out at the same locations where the keel bolts normally screw in. The keel plate sits directly on top of this and bolts on. The whole thing seems like some sort of retrofit. I'm debating putting in the plastic blocks. If there's a better retrofit, I'm interested.

As an aside, I've considered painting the inside of the keel trunk with rubberized RIB bottom paint to create a flexible seal. Any thoughts on that?

Darren Gilbert · August 15, 2011, 08:48:20 AM

I am also having Keel bolt issues. My forward one seems to be holding fine, but the aft was a embedded wing nut that just popped out. Any suggestions on how to fix it?

Jeff Jones · August 15, 2011, 09:18:36 AM

Olaf, that sounds like a retro-fit. I'm only aware of two keel trunk styles on the bennett's. Have any pictures?

Darren, i have the same issue. I'm going to try and tackle it this week.

Olaf Bleck · August 15, 2011, 10:51:41 AM

Quote from: Jeff Jones on August 15, 2011, 09:18:36 AM

Olaf, that sounds like a retro-fit. I'm only aware of two keel trunk styles on the bennett's. Have any pictures?

Yeah, here's a few.

(The very mangled keel plate has been replaced)

Jeff Jones · August 15, 2011, 11:14:37 AM

That's crazy.

The metal guide looks like what i've done. Used HDPE at first, now tefon sheet. It's a great, simple system.

Olaf Bleck · August 15, 2011, 11:42:57 AM

Hey Jeff,

Do you have an NC mill or waterjet? Nifty looking. That fits inside the trunk box? How's it kept in place?
I might be interested in ordering one from you.

I think the guy that did the ones I have was also having issues with keeping the bolts threaded in, so he made this thing with the studs coming up and said nuts on top.

What's at the hull end? (nothing on#24)

Also, what do you think of my RIB rubberized bottom paint idea as a trunk sealant? Any better products come to mind?

Jeff Jones · August 15, 2011, 12:10:05 PM

We have a pretty handy cnc table with 18" of z.. I'm not smart enough for 3d work, but am pretty handy with acad and 2d stuff like this. If you can draw it, i can cut it. I've got a ton of HDPE plate around but not much teflon left (the teflon is pretty expensive - yet cheaper than a keel job)

One thing i really like about this guide is that it only contacts about 1" of the front and back of the keel. The sides are wide enough that there's about an 1/8" gap on either side.

To install it; I glued some frp tabs down inside the keel box with plexus. Their drilled and tapped to accept this piece.

and that's actually not a horrible way to secure the keel.. if you bugger up the bolts like Darren has you can take the thing out and replace them. But it does raise your keel about 3/4" right?

For my keel bolts i think i'm going to take some G10 plate, cut 1" round pieces and stack them with glue. Then - glue them up under the deck where the keel bolts go and drill / tap into it. That will give me a female thread to bolt into that is very secure. And - i'll stack enough so that i wont drill / tap all the way through - keeping water out of the hull at that point.

Chris Shaughnessy · August 17, 2011, 02:46:59 PM

Here are pics of keel box cassette I got from Rondar last August. There were no inserts - I was told to position it on top of the existing inserts and drill hole so I could continue to use them. Purpose was not to help with keel bolt issues but just to glue it in and have it act as a sacrificial shock absorber of sorts (Paraphrasing Andy at Rondar here). In case that didn't work out they did also give me a few new inserts to epoxy in if necc. Note that the fore and aft 'tabs' have carbon cloth reinforcing on them. I did not install it yet because it was not a good fit to the keel profile - way too tight to slide up and down without gauging the keel sides.
Have been meaning to sand it down some and glue it in over the winter - of course that will leave me with exposed glass rubbing against the keel which is not great either.
BTW this was for #108 so about as close to 106 as you can get.
Maybe they have modified the insert since last year ?

Chris Shaughnessy · August 17, 2011, 02:48:10 PM

the other pic