Can someone tell me what size clam cleats are used for halyards on a mark3 boat?
CL222 is on the bottom of my spare. APS shows them as C222. About $10.
Thanks Dave! mine are shot.
They are a bloody PITA to replace and wear out much too quickly. There has to be a better way to keep our mainsails up.
Any thoughts on adding a simple horn cleat?
Have put up with those clam cleats for too long. Next boat will have a horn cleat. Of course we could then argue about the right way to tie the halyard to the cleat... :)
My cleats are shot as well, and will be replaced over the winter. A couple questions:
1) Justin Scott says replacing is a PITA. Anything special I should watch out for?
2) Seriously thinking about replacing the lower cleat with a horn. Any reason why I shouldn't? Does that violate a Class rule?
Class rules can be found here and they are an easy read.
http://www.viper640.org/technical/rules/
The quick answer to your question is horn cleats are fine
"8.4 The main halyard cleats must be at or near the base of the mast and may be of any type. "
I have a cam cleat on a swivel (miniature version of the spin halyard headknocker) that Ron Pletsch installed for us in Sarasota. There was some work involved on his end to back it inside the mast to ensure that it'd be durable but so far, so good - definitely easier to use. Doesn't slip. A little harder to remove the compass bracket for trailering but the mast cover still fits over it. That said, there's no reason to install it until the old cleats or block start shredding.
I used a 40mm Harken block with attached cam cleat. Big improvement.
People using the cam cleat on a swivel, did you remove the other clam cleats?
Nick
Yes, minimize holes in mast by reusing existing holes as much as possible. That said, you will end up making new holes and not filling all of them. Regardless, you should always be pulling your main halyard up outside any cleat (better for halyard and for cleat, esp. with the clam cleats though) and only pulling up the last inch or two through the cleat, and you should rinse the cleats with fresh water regularly (a commonly missed spot during boat cleaning).
Hey Peter - Do you know what size the swivel block and cleat is on your boat? Any pictures available?
Do you find it catches on anything else at the base of the mast? I have my spin sock on the port side already so that might help.
My block is just shackled to the same attachment as the old tiny block.
I do not have a photo, sorry. It's like you'd expect though - nothing too tricky on the exterior, looks like the system for the spin halyard except for the main halyard and mounted right side up with a smaller fitting.
Jason, the 40mm has a safe working load of 150lbs with a breaking load of 300lbs.. Any issue with the block? The 57mm is 300 an d 750.
I haven't had an issue yet, but it would be very easy to swap if I ever needed to. I did keep the top clam cleat too (still worn), which might help a little bit.
It is certainly larger than the previous block!
If you run the halyard around the side of the cleats while hoisting it doesn't wear out the cleats. Then when the main is fully hoisted put the halyard in the cleats for securing.
Boat #22 has a jam cleat paired with a horn mounted a little lower down. Jam cleat holds it well enough until I can get it around the horn.
Is this the harken cam cleat you used Peter? http://ca.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Blocks-Harken-Blocks-Harken-Carbo-Blocks-29mm-&-40mm/c28_425_383_348/p10261/Harken-40mm-Carbo-Pivoting-Lead-Block/product_info.html
Pretty sure I use the 29mm version.