New owner of #129

[Peter Beardsley]

How soon are you needing one? I haven't made any other pieces yet, but was thinking:

1- 1" piece
3-.5" piece
1-.25" piece

That would bring the total up to 3.25" with the curved front chock.

Carson,

If you're doing these from scratch, I would suggest the following:

1 2.5" block (no one ever goes less than 2.5" of blocks - maybe you can go 2.25" if you think that the thinking on that could change in the future if some new tuning philosophy ever takes hold)

- The rest in 0.25" increments unless you wanted to put the final two in 0.125" increments for people who are tweakers.  I am a pretty big tweaker though and I keep my gears pretty simple (2.5", 2.75", 3", 3.25", and a crazy setting that I do not recommend unless you really feel confident in your tuning and sailing abilities and don't mind buying a new mast if you're wrong about that of 3.375"). 

[Carson Downing]

oooh--sweet! Can I ask how much for a set, or even just for the one by the mast?

I sent you and John a message regarding this.

[Carson Downing]

How soon are you needing one? I haven't made any other pieces yet, but was thinking:

1- 1" piece
3-.5" piece
1-.25" piece

That would bring the total up to 3.25" with the curved front chock.

Carson,

If you're doing these from scratch, I would suggest the following:

1 2.5" block (no one ever goes less than 2.5" of blocks - maybe you can go 2.25" if you think that the thinking on that could change in the future if some new tuning philosophy ever takes hold)

- The rest in 0.25" increments unless you wanted to put the final two in 0.125" increments for people who are tweakers.  I am a pretty big tweaker though and I keep my gears pretty simple (2.5", 2.75", 3", 3.25", and a crazy setting that I do not recommend unless you really feel confident in your tuning and sailing abilities and don't mind buying a new mast if you're wrong about that of 3.375").

I can only do 2" thickness max on the CNC, it's a little guy. Otherwise I would have to bolt a few together. I like the idea of the rest of them all being 1/4" though.

[Carson Downing]

Finished set. Went with a 2.5" chock up front and three 1/4" chocks as Peter suggested. 1/4" chocks sit higher than the beveled chock, and they have a small bevel at the bottom so it's easier to push them in. There's also a small recess in the main chock for the line, so it doesn't get caught in between the chocks when you are inserting them. Fun project! I have extra material, so shoot me a message if you are interested.

[Carson Downing]

Spring projects have officially started.

Got the boat hung up in the garage to check if the rudder and keel were aligned. They were perfect, however the keel is canted to starboard by quite a long ways, which is why the rudder looked crooked. So I got the top cassette pulled out and it is probably going to stay out permanently. I have a plan to add a wedge attached to the lower cassette inside the keel box and then another wedge on the back of the keel that pushes the keel forward onto shims (Talked to a member of the Tech Committee about this vaguely.) Does anyone know how the threaded inserts are held in? it looked like they were literally just sandwiched between the deck and the top cassette with 5200, so I may just glass them onto the deck.

Started fairing the keel, wasn't anywhere close to the class shape! Pretty all over the place as far as being straight as well, but looking better.

Got the mast prepped for new clear coat, new main halyard and cleating system, 2:1 jib halyard installed, switching back to rear boom sheeting after some interesting testing, and new instrument bracket to test out.

Ready to get back out on the water!

[Carson Downing]

More photos from previous post.

[Peter Beardsley]

So I got the top cassette pulled out and it is probably going to stay out permanently. I have a plan to add a wedge attached to the lower cassette inside the keel box and then another wedge on the back of the keel that pushes the keel forward onto shims (Talked to a member of the Tech Committee about this vaguely.)

Definitely confirm that with Dave Nickerson first before committing to that approach.  A lot of owners of Mark III Vipers may want to do the same but I'm not sure it'll still be a one design Viper 640 if you go down that road (though I've always wanted there to be a legit retrofit of that system - needs to be blessed first). 

If your first keel fairing job goes well and you realize there is no need for a backup keel, you know where to find me - offer still stands for me to come out to Iowa and do a regatta with you.

[John Leyland]

Hi Peter,

I'm in complete agreement that we need a legit retrofit for pre-wedge boats.  It is not exactly one design now and I believe there is discontent over this issue and it may (if it hasn't already) hurt participation in the future as well as devalues those boats.  I for one can't just go out and buy a newer boat but would put money into a retrofit.

Cheers,
John

[Carson Downing]

I've exchanged emails with Dave about a wedge concept a few months ago. My first idea was to add wedges like the current boats towards the center of the keel. This would include a connected top and bottom cassette with aluminum rods and delrin pieces in between to support the wedges. So all the load would be on the top and bottom cassette. But, after I got the top plate off, I don't  think there's room, and it would be heavy and not as easy. So, wedge on the trailing edge of the keel and wedge in the lower cassette to shove the keel up against a forward shim is simple and effective, and easy to raise and lower. I'll draw up some final plans and get a "for sure" approval from the tech committee before testing.

I'll also post them here and get class opinions. Because if they work well, it would be a great upgrade for MKIII boats as a performance and maintenance option.

Peter, not ready to let the 2nd keel go. However, if you ever find yourself stuck at the in-laws and want to go for a sail, give me a call! We have a good time on Wednesday nights killing the tri-maran's and old lead mines. And free beer helps too 😉

[Craig Wilusz]

Be interesting to see if some of the Australians pipe in on this thread as some of those boats at the Worlds a couple of years ago in Oz had already developed a "solution" to the non-wedge boats.  It was an interesting approach. I took some pics, however am unable to find them.

Craig

[Carson Downing]

Installed a new Main halyard cleating system today, testing it out Wednesday night. Swivel mount didn't work as planned (same as spin halyard cleat), still slipped a little.

[brian partridge]

hi carson, I recently replaced the main cleats on my mast but I went with CL218 mk2 from clam cleat, 2 of them. and I get zero slippage. it might be the small tang that holds rope down in front doing the trick.
cheers