Gybing

Started by Matt Rowlinson, May 02, 2011, 06:36:17 PM

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Robert Bernard

Check the loos website. They have a conversion chart.

http://68.171.211.157/how-to-use-pt-series-tension-gauges



Viper #76   Navi-Gator

Drew Harper

Quote from: Luke Porter on July 17, 2011, 12:28:01 PM
Quote from: Robert Bernard on July 16, 2011, 09:04:22 PM
Luke, make sure you are starting at the right base value with the loos gauge called out. I had the type A gauge instead of the PT-1 and I was always under tuning my rig. Mother nature helped me ditch the gauge overboard and that's when I realized my mistake. 32 on a PT-1 is not the same as on a type A etc.

This might be the base of the problem. I've got a type A gauge. Does anyone have a PT-1 to type A translation?

Drew: We have the stock Hyde sails, if that helps any. The forestay is set to the recommended length from the tuning guide and I'm not sure how much more we can lengthen it, there's a lot of thread showing. We haven't been burping the jib in the puffs, we'll try that on Wednesday and see what happens.

Once I get the base setting right, roughly how many turns are folks adding for various wind speeds?

Luke.

Hey Luke...what year are the sails. We are currently on Gen IV Hydes. All the mains were somewhat different.

The key thing isn't turns on or off, but how the sail looks...hence my plea to the sail makers for some reference pics.

If you have a Gen II hyde main I believe there's 5.95 " of luff curve on that one. If you pout roughly 6" of smooth curve bend into the mast, you should have a very flat main, not inverted and can adjust what little draft you have with outhaul and c-ham.

Don't be swayed by a number on a Loos. I have two identical ones and they read wildly different. It's just a spring.

Best thing to to is make a draft gauge and get used to what the bend looks like.

Back the headstay turnbuckle all the way off so you know exactly how much thread you have...re-install it and thread on at a minimum 1/2" of threads. Take a measurement.

I think, given the winds you're sailing in, a longer headstay will make considerable difference for you.

#189 UK Built Mark IV Viper "DILLIGAF"

Luke Porter

Quote from: Luke Porter on July 17, 2011, 12:28:01 PM
This might be the base of the problem. I've got a type A gauge. Does anyone have a PT-1 to type A translation?

Nevermind. I had to grab some bits to re-rig the boat today and found a PT-1 at the same time. There is a serious difference in tension between what I had before and what I have now!

Luke.
"Porkchop"
Can 166
Halifax, NS

Luke Porter

Quote from: Drew Harper on July 17, 2011, 01:07:41 PM
Hey Luke...what year are the sails. We are currently on Gen IV Hydes. All the mains were somewhat different.

Back the headstay turnbuckle all the way off so you know exactly how much thread you have...re-install it and thread on at a minimum 1/2" of threads. Take a measurement.

I think, given the winds you're sailing in, a longer headstay will make considerable difference for you.

The boat's brand new (#166) with Hydes straight from the factory so I'm gonna go with 2011.

The stupid thing is that we normally have fairly light winds in the middle of the season, someone up there is messing with my head! The biggest problem we were having was a completely slack headstay. Now, the rig was under-tensioned at the time and we couldn't get the main tight enough to provide any support which wasn't helping but wouldn't a longer headstay make all that more difficult? Or would it basically just tilt the entire rig back leaving the relative tensions the same?

Luke.
"Porkchop"
Can 166
Halifax, NS

Matt Rowlinson

Quote from: Luke Porter on July 17, 2011, 06:19:10 PM
The biggest problem we were having was a completely slack headstay.
Luke.

Do you have chocks in front of the mast at the partners?  That helps a lot.

Matt CAN 70

Luke Porter

Quote from: Matt Rowlinson on July 17, 2011, 07:10:24 PM
Do you have chocks in front of the mast at the partners?  That helps a lot.

We have the mast puller system that restricts the forward movement in the partner hole (slot). We're still working out how to use that.

Luke.
"Porkchop"
Can 166
Halifax, NS

Matt Sole

Remember as you lengthen the head stay, you may need to lower the bridle. The angle of the boom will be lower and with the bridle in the original position block to block may still leave you with not much leech tension.

Also if you lengthen or shorten the head stay you will need to shorten or lengthen respectively the shrouds to keep the same shroud tension.

All the numbers are just guides. It also depends on your crew weight, and sailing style. A heavier crew will not use as much shroud tension in general as light crew who will be needing to de-power the boat.

If you go out sailing and feel over powered, put on a turn or two. If still overpowered try another turn. Experiment. A lot.
Booze it or lose it

Hijack GBR 78

Drew Harper

Matt's right on here. Headstay and cap shrouds lengths are directly connected. I know the rig well for the current generation boats...you can lengthen headstay to max and still have cap adjustment.

You have Gen IV sails Luke. 4 3/8" luff curve (I think..the spec changed a bit through testing). You can put considerable bend in the stick without inverting the main.

I'd set 4" prebend and sail with very firm vang, a fair bit of c-ham (opens the leech as well as moving draft forward) and put your strongest trimmer on the jib...not the kite. A bit counter intuitive there but in essence you won't be cleating the jib going upwind. Allows your bow guy to hike like a bi**h too :-))

The pulled on the boat works fine but for ease I'd grab some of these for blocking. Simple and very adjustable. Blocking the mast keeps it a bit straighter lower which shapes up the lower main well and also reduces the headstay sag, most importantly when the main is eased. The sagging headstay is powering up the whole rig. Just be careful not to OVERBLOCK or you can keep the mast too straight....crunchy in the puffs with the kite up :-O

Luke, feel free to give me a call and we can talk about sailing in the breeze. 415-543-7333

#189 UK Built Mark IV Viper "DILLIGAF"