Moving vang cleats on Bennett boats

Started by Kevin Taugher, August 06, 2013, 12:01:55 AM

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Kevin Taugher

On our boat the vang cleat and cheek block are forward of the middle crew. These are through-bolted and accessible from the main storage hatch on each tank. I'd like to move the cleat and block aft like in the newer boats so either the helm or middle crew can adjust. 

Has anyone done this and any suggestions on the best way to do it?  Considering cutting a port to access from the main tank hatch.

Thanks

KT

Darren Gilbert

Kevin, I added two 4" inspection ports (One per side) to add backing plates for the Gnav hardware.  My cleat and block are back by the skipper.
Formerly Black Sheep (#29), Black Sheep II (#194) and Black Sheep III (#106)

Jeff Jones

guys, I've done this many times.   

What I did was to take a piece of 1/4" thick G10 (you can order small pieces of it on line) and trim out a 1/2" wide x ?? long (depending on the block size) piece from it.

Cut a piece of the outer cockpit skin (large enough to fit the piece of G10 in).   Take a dremel tool and remove a bit more of the foam core.  Be careful not to damage the inner skin.  The foam comes out really easy so if you use a non-abrasive tool you shouldn't get into the inner skin.  put the piece of G10 in place with some thickened epoxy.  Sand the exterior flush.

Drill / tap that to bolt on your block.

What's great about doing this is that a) there is no chance of water getting into your foam core.   b) to remove, replace or whatever the block you just unscrew it - no washers/ nuts to drop into the hull cavity c) it's stronger than bolting through the cored laminate - no chance you will compress the skins. 

You don't have to make the exterior look perfect, just get it smooth.   The block you install covers what damage you did to the exterior.

I've heard of folks doing something similar just using thickened epoxy - I like the G10 but the latter will work.

On hull number 31 I removed every fitting on the boat and did this. 

If you have the tools handy it's a 1 hour ordeal. 

Kevin Taugher

Thanks Jeff and Darren. Both options seem good. I do like Jeff's idea to avoid getting water into the tank. I do have some G10 which I was going to use for backing plates, which could be used in this manner instead.

Dan Tucker

I've done the thickened epoxy route, which is also easy and strong.

Small hole saw our drill to cut through the outer skin. Leave the inner skin. Clear out the core. Fill with epoxy with high density filler (peanut butter consistency). Cut off excess with a utility blade and clean up with acetone as it cures. Drill and tap. Gelcoat or paint if you like.

I did the hiking straps on #50 this way

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Race it like you stole it.

Jeff Jones


I think I sailed on 50 with Dan after he'd done this.  If the solution didn't fail either of us, everyone else is pretty safe. 

This was the pre-px90 Dan, mind you. 



Quote from: Dan Tucker on August 08, 2013, 10:01:00 PM
I've done the thickened epoxy route, which is also easy and strong.

Small hole saw our drill to cut through the outer skin. Leave the inner skin. Clear out the core. Fill with epoxy with high density filler (peanut butter consistency). Cut off excess with a utility blade and clean up with acetone as it cures. Drill and tap. Gelcoat or paint if you like.

I did the hiking straps on #50 this way

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Dan Tucker

Quote from: Jeff Jones on August 08, 2013, 10:37:07 PM

I think I sailed on 50 with Dan after he'd done this.  If the solution didn't fail either of us, everyone else is pretty safe. 

This was the pre-px90 Dan, mind you. 
LMAO!

Very true, Jeff and I are both Clydesdales. The vang load at the cleat is NOTHING compared to hiking strap load on that one poor eyestrap in between us while we're both fully hiked! LOL


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Race it like you stole it.